Juice

A.O.C. LA

The food and wine at A.O.C. are immensely satisfying.  Isn't that the point?  I've had a number of meals over the past few years at haute cuisine type establishments and more frequently than I would like, they seem a little empty.  Conceptually and intellectually they are stimulating but, considering the price tag, they leave me feeling something is missing.  This is not the case at A.O.C.  Chef Suzanne Goin and her business partner sommelier Caroline Styne have crafted an experience that, befitting its Los Angeles location, is urban, stylish, and comforting. 

Primo ingredients seem to be the building blocks at A.O.C.  The house made chacuterie is fantastic.  The highlight being the chicken liver crostini with pancetta.  The pork rillettes with cherry jam were also kick ass.  The Californian/Mediterranean/French small plates are simple yet sophisticated.  They cook many of the dishes in a wood-fired oven.  The skirt steak with aged balsamic was good but the halibut grilled tomatoes, fennel, and olives was ummm-ummm good.  The farro with black rice with pine nuts and currants was really rich and delicious hearty food.

Another highlight for wine lovers is the fifty bottle cruvinet.  I have never seen one close to that large.  Styne does an amazing job with the wine list.  All kinds of artisinal stuff by the glass with none of the usual suspects.  Lots of Loire, Alsatian, Southern France gems.  It is a labor of love and her dedication to the wine list serves the food well.  Or is it the other way around?  This the best by the glass restaurant I have ever been to.

We sat at the cheese bar because we didn't have reservations.  A.O.C. also has a small but fun cheese list.  I had the humboldt county cypress grove pyramid.  Very good.

If you are going to be in LA make a special trip to A.O.C.

8022 West 3rd St.
Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.653.6359

Ortolan, Los Angeles

Although we have a number of pretty good dining options in Springfield, whenever I travel I find myself scoping out all the places I want to eat long before I find a hotel or book my ticket.  If it is a work- related engagement I am usually lucky to get one special meal in.  My attention prior to my recent trip to LA was on Food and Wine magazine’s top new chefs list in the July issue.  Initially I was researching Bluestem in Kansas City, whose Chef/Proprietor Colby Garrets was praised on the list.   I remembered seeing an LA resto and promptly turned back to the magazine to find Ortolan.  Getting a reservation for Friday wasn’t too difficult even though I called on Monday of the same week.

The interior is opulent and modern.  Much like the food it seems to be a modern interpretation of something French with a touch of Asia.  Fantastic crystal chandeliers, antique mirrors, and light cream color banquettes endow the main dining room with a sense of luxe couture.  The main leads into a bar area that has a number of smaller tables.  The ceiling of bar area is like that of a greenhouse and A-shaped.  They call the wall opposing the bar a “living wall”.  Maybe 6 or 7 rows of different herbs run the length of the wall from ceiling to floor.  We were seated in the bar area which quite honestly wasn’t perfect.  I felt a little scrunched and there seemed to be a good deal of server traffic and guests at the bar waiting for the rest of their party to arrive.  I would definitely request the main dining room.  A private room behind the bar area looked magnificent.

The cuisine at Ortolan is ambitious.  When a place exudes gravity in its space and demands high prices on its menu, the expectations are set sky high.  Anything less than mind blowing can seem a disappointment of sorts.  Ortolan lived up to these expectations in certain areas and came up short in others.

The amuse bouches were very interesting.  They all came pureed in test tubes.  The tomato and melon one was fantastic.  I can’t remember the other combos but there were two others.

I was determined to stick to French wines for our meal.  Surprisingly, the list was not as heavy on France as I might have thought given the French food, the French chef, and the French sommelier Frédéric Hémon.  The wine list however is well put together and fairly priced which is a surprise of this type of place.  There also is a notable reserve list that deserves a look.

For our first wine I chose a 2003 Leon Boesch Gewurz from Alscace.  I hadn’t had a Gewurz in a little while and really enjoyed this one.  It was dry with nice spicy aromas and hints of nuts and fruit skins and pits.  It played along with almost all of the first courses.

I ordered hamachi for a starter which came two ways: as sashimi and seared with blood orange marinade. The fish was no doubt high quality but not a knockout punch.  My wife had the crispy langoustines paired with a test full of delightful gaspacho.  A much better choice.

The second wine was a 2003 Vin du Pays des Cotes Catalanes “Empreinte du Temps” from Ferrer Ribiere.  Wow that is a mouthful for a name.  It was a mouthful of wine as well.  I learned after the fact that this Carignan wine is completely bio-dynamic.  Everything is governed by the cycles of the moon.  Bruno Ribiere won’t use stainless steel tanks in his cellar because they conduct electricity and will disrupt his moon cycles.  The vines from this parcel are 128 years old!!  The wine was intensely flavorful with deep dark peppery fruit flavors.  It was unique and wild much like the people from the Catalan region.

For my main I selected pork belly served with fresh noodles, white truffles, and some rather rich crème based sauce.  This dish was ultra rich.  Parts of the pork belly were very tasty and other seemed almost too crispy, like fancy pork rinds.  Maybe that’s the way it is supposed to be.  I'm not sure.

The desert was out of this world good. Panacotta with mango coulis and coconut emulsion.  One of the best desserts I have ever had. It was the perfect follow up to the rich noodles and fatty pork belly.

The service leads a little something to be desired.  Everyone was friendly enough but either our server was there too much or would disappear for too long.  The main waiter seemed to have below average knowledge of the menu.  At this type of restaurant I expect service that happens without noticing it is happening.  My gold standard for service so far is Pierre Gagnaire in Paris.  His waiters must have ESP.  The meal goes flawlessly and you hardly even notice that they were there.

Ortolan is a Haute Cuisine effort from Chef Christophe Eme.  If I were picking restaurants purely by the chef’s resume′ is would be tough to beat Christophe.  He has worked at a Auberge de l’Eridan, Laurent, Taillevent, and L’Orangerie in Los Angeles.

In case you are wondering, an Ortolan is rare bird that is/was considered a delicacy in French cuisine.  Now the poor little bird is near extinction from over-eating but is thankfully a protected species these days.

1999 Alex Gambal Vosne Romanee and Flame the Steakhouse

I can turn into an apologist when it comes to Burgundy, especially when I'm the one paying for it.  I'll look intensely for any redeeming qualities.  Leave it alone, come back and hope it has evolved.  Hold it in my mouth longer, blame the food, question if I just "get it."  Burgundy more than any other place asks for a bit of intellect.  But sooner or later when a wine just isn't very appealing you have to have to say it.  Especially frustrating when almost everything under the "Pinot Noir" side of the list would have been a better value.

Alex Gambal is an American who owns Maison Alex Gambal in Beaune.  Alex and his wife moved to Burgundy on a sabbatical in 1991 and it became their life's calling to be in the wine business.  Alex writes,

"         I left the export business in September 1996 and enrolled in the adult         wine school in Beaune, a division of the Lycée Viticole. I finished         the program in June 1997 and as part of my study developed a plan for         a French negociant (literally wine merchant) company which we started         in July 1997. In addition to several small vineyards on which I grow grapes         with partners, the major part of our activities involve buying grapes,         grape must (mout), conduct its elevage (literally raising) in barrel (12-22         months) and then bottle...We make all our wines in an artisanal         manner in small lots by hand, manipulate the wines without pumps, bottle         by gravity without finning or filtering our reds and only lightly fining         our whites. We make approximately 60% red and 40% white.

I have enjoyed a number of Alex's wines in the past and he is undoubtedly an up and comer to watch for.  I even ran into him at a restaurant in Boston a few months ago.  The 1999 Vosne Romanee was very thin with almost no real fruit to speak of.  There was a tough tannic almost vegetal finish.  Didn't offer up much on the nose.  For the $85 I paid at Flame in Springfield, MO it was probably one of the worst selections on the list.

The food at Flame was very good.  The food is simple American fare.  Dry aged steaks, shellfish, Fries Lyonnaise style, Onion rings, Lobster Mac and Cheese....I had a 12oz. strip that was dry aged for at least 14 days.  It was served on a small plate, cooked perfectly medium rare, with a small dab of butter.  They come with a nice crust on the outside and very juicy on the inside.  One of the better steaks I've had at Flame.  They also have a small raw bar that has very good Blue Points and nice shrimp.  Kelly and I shared the shrimp cocktail which can be pretty boring especially in the Midwest but it was tasty.

Blackbird Chicago, IL. Two thumbs way up.

Even though my lunch date canceled on me at the last minute and I was a tad bit hung over, I enjoyed a fantastic lunch at Blackbird in Chicago. I had read some good things about it and was excited to give it a try. Executive Chef Paul Kahan’s style at Blackbird straddles the lines between modern and classic and rich yet light on it’s feet with apparent ease. There is foundation of French bistro that is made lighter and more stylish without losing the soul. Absolutely primo ingredients prepared with a deft hand. Paul Kahan was the winner of the prestigous James Beard award in 2004 for best chef in the Midwest.

The space is modern. It is rather small. Perhaps there are 50 seats total with fairly close seating by American standards. White is the primary color. It works nicely to set off the wood touches. It is a fairly narrow room with an open kitchen at the back.

The service here is stupendous. Attentive, knowledgeable, unobtrusive yet friendly. Everything on the menu looked so delicious that I asked them if they would prepare a tasting menu for me. Without hesitation the waiter came back with a four-course suggestion for $45.

The wine list here is fairly extensive and well selected. There are a number of nice half bottles. The selection is avoids an overload of the obvious selections and features some slightly esoteric things. It however still represents Burgundy and Bordeaux competently. Chosen by someone with great taste. The two negatives I have are that the by the glass list is on the south side of interesting and wine prices are towards the high end of restaurant pricing. Not excessive mind you, but not inviting enough to splurge on something special. Two to two and a half times retail.  You can see the wine list here.

I started with a glass of 1999 Henri Mandois Blanc de Blanc. Very light. Nectarine flavors, maybe a bit of passion fruit. Not at all a leesy style. Very good.

The first course was a butternut squash puree, with pancetta, black truffles, and micro arugala. Very nice balance of flavors and textures here. The sweetness and creaminess of the squash complimented by the earthiness of the truffles. Both of those flavors countered by the fat of the pancetta. I almost licked the bowl. Instead I sponged it with some very whole grain rolls covered with sunflower seeds. First time I had ever heard the word micro subbed for baby but I like the creative thinking.

With the next course I drank a 2002 Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon, Macon Milly-Lamartine. Nothing too exceptional about it. Played well with the food but didn’t enhance it much.

The second dish built on the momentum from the first. Seared Nantucket bay scallops with buckwheat noodles, salsify, heirloom apples, and black truffles. Truffles in the first two courses! Like the first this course played a nice game of balance and juxtaposition. Cool noodles, hot scallops. Creamy scallops against the acidity of the apples. I could have walked out on to Randolph street at this point and been satisfied.

But I was glad that I didn’t. Course three was a pave of chestnut polenta and butternut squash with trumpet royale mushrooms, savoy cabbage, and roasted quince. Ultra fresh ingredients and hypnotic aromas. This was similar to the mushroom ragout I had later that week at Central Kitchen in Boston.

With the final course I had a 2000 Michel Gros Bourgogne. Here is what Allen Meadows had to say.

2000 Bourgogne: (from parcels in Vosne and Nuits). Bright, fresh and lively with solid finishing tannins. Lovely if somewhat light. (82-84)/2003-5

The final course was the lamb with winter root vegetables, haricots verts, gremolata, and grilled bread. Fantastic rendition of something simple. One of those great ingredients, try not to screw them up type of dishes. Flawless.

Blackbird is a big supporter of local and organic foods. On the menu it says “blackbird supports Chicago’s green city market.” Fortunately for all the foodies crowded in this hip spot, it reveals itself in the food.

Blackbird will be tops on my list next time I go to Chicago. I just need someone to share it with this time.

Blackbird
619 W Randolph
Chicago, IL
312.715.0708
fax 312.715.0774
www.blackbirdrestaurant.com

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Central Kitchen Cambridge MA

Sometimes great restaurants happen out of sheer luck.  On our way to a small tapas place that didn't accept reservations we passed Central Kitchen.  Kelly and I both remarked that it looked like an interesting little spot and vowed to check it out the next time.  Well the next time happened to be about 20 minutes later because of the hour long wait at the tapas place and the Christmas party that we didn't want to be too late for.  Since I hadn't read anything about the restaurant I didn't have any expectations.  This place delivered the goods.
Central Kitchen is long, dimly lit restaurant with a bar running about half it's length and seating about 15 people.  The music is a tad bit louder and much fresher than in your average place.  No overused Miles Davis Kind of Blue jazz here.  (Although I love Kind of Blue)  the length of one wall  was covered with wood wine racks like those used to age Champagne.  These racks were hung flush on the wall and filled with wine bottles.  Some of these bottles were actually glowing lights.  Very cool look.  We sat at the bar.
The menu is fairly simple.  On a chalk board are the daily raw bar selections and then a small menu holds about 4-5 small plates and 5-6 main courses.  The food is very French bistro influenced but trending towards the innovative rather than rustic.  We chose to share three plates.  First was a Baby Spinach persimmon, candied pecans, and great hill blue cheese salad topped with a light glaze maple black pepper vinaigrette.  The persimmons added a very understated fruit to the more hearty cheese and pecans.  Delicious.
Next came a Chacroute with duck confit, braised pork, and house cured sauerkraut.  Chacroute is a traditional Alsatian dish that normally pairs a few different pieces of pig atop a bed of sauerkraut.  Sausage, ham, cheeks, etc.  This dish can be quite hearty and unfine but this was very elegant.  The house made kraut was coarse and off sweet.  the duck confit very crispy and the braised pork falling to pieces.  Rivals Mon Vielle Ami in Paris for the best Chacroute I have had.
The main course was to die for.  Locally foraged mushroom ragout and little ricotta dumplings.  The small bit off broth that the ragout sat in was incredibly aromatic.  Lots of fresh forest scents.  Morels, chantrelles, spinach countered by small creamy little dumplings.

The wine lists are what a perfect wine list should be in my opinion.  The first had about 100-125 selections from around the world.  Wines from renowned places like Bordeaux, Napa, Burgundy, alongside more esoteric selections from Sicily and Austria.  The reserve list was about 50 very well chosen selections each priced at about $20 over retail.  Many of the selections had a bit of bottle age.  I noticed 1995 Jadot Clos St Jacques for $90 and a number of mid 1990s Bordeaux.  Why doesn't everyone price wine like this!!!!!!  If you are making world class food the experience will be enhanced by encouraging people to drink a better bottle of wine.  Once I saw the reserve list I changed my selection from a Sicilian Nero d'Avola to 1990 Guigal Hermitage.

As an aside we also noticed Alex Gambal from Maison Alex Gambal in Burgundy.  Alex is a yank who has been producing world class burgundy where he lives.  Somewhat of an oddity.

The food was fantastic, the wine list fun and well priced, and the service at the bar superb.  Can't wait until the next time.

Weekend Wrap Up

Whew!  What a weekend.  Unfortunately I am not going to be able to recall with much clarity all of the wines that showed up.  The "Friday Night TV Dinner" was great concept.  Cocktails, wine, and light bites started the  night, dinner followed with 8 bottles of wine for every 8 person table.  Brad Feuerbacher opened a 15 liter Remoissenent Corton Charlemagne.  2001 Williams Selyem Vista Verde, 2001 Cinq Cepages,  Swanson Pinot Grigio and Mer et Soleil Chardonnay.

Saturday was a down day altough I did get my new grill delivered.  Needing to test it out immediately, I grilled elk and organic beef burgers topped with a bit of pancetta.

For the second time my birthday shared the day of the Food and Wine Celebration to benefit local public television.  The event combines many area restaurants stands with a number of modest wines from local distributers.

After the event we were joined by Andy and Dana and my parents at our house to enjoy some wines.

1997 Alessandria Barolo was dark garnet in color, deep and dark chocolate, blackberrries, exotic spices, and very sexy tannins laced throughout.  91 on the Noah scale.

1995 Guigal Cote Rotie had medium traces of smoke, bacon, wild game.  Light ruby in color.  Fresh acidity.  89

1995 Clos Des Papes CDP was most likely at its peak and drinking wonderfully.  Lush but not overdone.

Dinner at Thai House followed.  I am not usually a fan of calamari as I find it at best rather ordinary.  The calmari at Thai House was exceptional.  The golden buttery batter was perfect.  The crispy duck and "frog legs Junge" were also superb.  With dinner we had 2000 Forman Cabernet, 2002 Bucci Verdicchio, and 1997 Domaine Trevallon.  Unfortunately I do not truly remeber any of these wines enough to comment.  Next time I take notes at the table!!!