Juice

1996 Panther Creek "Shea Vineyard" Pinot Noir

Kelly's mom and pop and left this bottle at our house as a gift a few weeks back.  I have had Panther Creek pinots numerous times in the past but didn't know what to expect from this one.  I figured being a 1996 it was probably in the twilight of its life at best.  The 1996s were being made by winemaker Mark Vlossak.  Mark produces some of Oregon's most consistent and fine wines.  These days Mark is the winemaker/proprietor at St. Innocent which deserves kudos not only for their great wines but the commitment to keeping them affordable.

According to the Panther Creek website:

Shea Vineyard was first planted with wine grapes in the late 1980s. Today Shea Vineyard is a 200-acre property with 140 planted acres. 135 acres are planted with Pinot noir vines. The balance is planted with Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris. Roughly 15% of the Pinot noir fruit is used each year by Shea Wine Cellars for its releases. The balance of the Pinot noir fruit is sold to wineries as close as the adjoining properties on both sides of the vineyard and as far away as Ojai, California. The vineyard sits on sedimentary soil over fractured sandstone. Shea was one of the early vineyards in this area of Yamhill County and on this soil type.

Having done no research before drinking it, I was curious. The wine was absolutely superb.  There was still a pretty amazing core of fruit.  The wine was ambering throughout the glass  Blueberry preserves, hints of spice, a bit of creaminess, a velvety texture, and a little vibrancy on the end.  This wine is mature and sexy.

This morning I decided to check what Pierre Rovani had written about it.  There was no rating but a fairly detailed account of the wine.  Seems it was a bit beguiling to him at the time.  Amazing what can happen to a wine in 9 years.  From erobertparker.com, Rovani's review (Oct 1998):

Panther Creek's 1996 Shea Vineyard is very reduced. At the winery it offered aromas of rubber and gamey meats that slowly transformed into stewed plums, cherries, and strawberries following aeration. It displayed excellent concentration, intensity, and a flavor profile dominated by reduced flavors (rubber, raw beef, and game) as well as spicy oak. Kaplan informed me that he and his team (including winemaker Mark Vlossak) had been confounded by this wine since fermentation. I have tasted it twice since. The first time it displayed spicy cherry yogurt aromas, as well as a creamy, complex, cinnamon-tinged, and sweet cherry-filled character. It was absolutely delicious. However, at a subsequent showing, it appeared more reduced than ever. Readers willing to cellar this wine for 5-6 years, or those who are willing to decant it for a number of hours, will be impressed by the wine's fruit (putting a few pennies in the wine will hasten the dissipation of the reductive notes). However, since I cannot expect readers to have loose change on hand at all times, I am reserving judgement.

2002 Van Duzer Pinot Noir

Van Duzer the winery gets its name from the Van Duzer the corridor.  This corridor ushers in cool pacific air into the Willamette Valley.  Van Duzer's vineyards sit at the mouth of this corridor.  According to their website, this positioning allows the afternoon temperature in the summer to be much cooler than other vineyards in the Willamette Valley.  Cooler weather logically leading to longer hang times for grapes.  Longer hang time leading to more complete flavors.  Cooler weather leading to the holy grail.  The holy grail for domestic Pinot being a wine that recalls Burgundy more than Napa.

Van Duzer is a member of L.I.V.E., Inc.  (Low Input Viticulture and Enology)  L.I.V.E. is an Oregon organization that offers certification of sustainable and responsible agricultural practices.  you can read more about them at their website.

This wine was on Wine Spectator's top 100 list in 2004 which makes me feel a bit like a chaser.  The label is also very cool.  It depicts Zephrya the Greek Goddess of the West Wind. Good wine is good wine though.

For $25 you would be hard pressed to find a much better Pinot.  It's got a beautiful light shade of red.  Tastes of blackberries and currants.  Subtle spice notes of cinnamon and nutmeg were present.  the flavors were bright without being too high toned.  What impressed me the most wasn't the fantastic richness of the flavors but the overall balance and purity.  Two qualities I value the most.  Pretty.  (also my favorite compliment for a wine)

Can be ordered many places.  Van Duzer's website has some left as well.   They offer free shipping on case orders.