About five years ago I read Adventures on the Wine Route by Kermit Lynch. That single book did more to change the way I enjoy wine than any other factor. After I had finished that book I was disappointed to find that he hadn't written anything else with the exception of his monthly newsletters. For the past few years I have eagerly awaited seeing each new monthly newsletter. The word newsletter might be a mis-characterization because it really is monthly catalog of what's for sale. Look forward to your J.Crew or your Pottery Barn catalog? His writings about wines and the people who make them have soul. They capture the humanity, and the art, and the passion of wine. You will find nary a score attached to any of his wines. They are above such a simple reduction. He writes about what a wine makes him feel, what he thinks of. He writes about the people who created it or what food it would be good with. His newsletters manage to entertain, inspire thirst, and sell wine.
This book is a collection of those newsletters. Over the course of his life as a wine merchant and importer he has probably done more than anyone else to bring the wines of France to the US. Not just Bordeaux and burgundy but small producers in the Loire, the Rhone, Alsace, Languedoc, and Provence. Not just France either. There have been the occasional wines from Italy and Spain as well. He promotes wines that break away from conformity. That are in his words "alive." He finds wines that are made in artisinal and personal way. His reputation has been built on the practice of only selling what he personally tastes and likes.
The prices on the entries are also fun to follow. Who knew the ultra expensive/rare wines of Jayer were so cheap in the early 80s.
It is a book that can be read straight through or opened to any page and bounce around. I should have read it a bit more leisurely. I think I plunged through the whole thing in two days. I couldn't help myself because it was so delicious.
Kermit Lynch is located at:
1605 San Pablo Avenue (at Cedar), Berkeley, CA 94702. Phone
510-524-1524.
Hours: Tue-Sat 11-6. Closed Sunday and Monday.
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