Last night I went to a taste seminar as part of the Slow Food Nation weekend. The topic was Howell Mountain and a tasting of Cab Francs from La Jota. The session was led by the current La Jota winemaker, Chris Carpenter.
I learned some interesting things about botht eh topography and weather patterns in Napa broadly and Howell Mountain specifically. Carpenter made the case that air movement played a much more significant role than soil in the terroir of Howell Mountain (and Napa in general). Howell Mountain has a cooler climate not just because of elevation but also because of fog and wind patterns tha keep it shielded from heat. Howell Mountain receives significantly more rain than the valley floor but its poor soils drain it away pretty efficiently.
We tasted eight Cabernet Francs spanning three decades. They were the 88, 92, 95, 96, 97, 01, 03 and 05 vintages. The 88 was remarkably fresh and still had great fruit and concentration. A beautiful mountainous nose of sage brush and eucalyptus, only slight rust at the edges. Dark plum notes intermixed with more leathery, tobacco notes. Lovely acidity!
I found a number of the La Jota Cab Francs (92, 95, 96) to have a stewed fruit character and a sour note. Not super offensive but not compelling either.
2005 was probably neck and neck with the 1988 for me in terms of favorite wine of the flight. Obviously at different stages of life but sharing in overall balance, purity and mountainous flavors.
Recent Comments