Blackbird Chicago, IL. Two thumbs way up.

Even though my lunch date canceled on me at the last minute and I was a tad bit hung over, I enjoyed a fantastic lunch at Blackbird in Chicago. I had read some good things about it and was excited to give it a try. Executive Chef Paul Kahan’s style at Blackbird straddles the lines between modern and classic and rich yet light on it’s feet with apparent ease. There is foundation of French bistro that is made lighter and more stylish without losing the soul. Absolutely primo ingredients prepared with a deft hand. Paul Kahan was the winner of the prestigous James Beard award in 2004 for best chef in the Midwest.

The space is modern. It is rather small. Perhaps there are 50 seats total with fairly close seating by American standards. White is the primary color. It works nicely to set off the wood touches. It is a fairly narrow room with an open kitchen at the back.

The service here is stupendous. Attentive, knowledgeable, unobtrusive yet friendly. Everything on the menu looked so delicious that I asked them if they would prepare a tasting menu for me. Without hesitation the waiter came back with a four-course suggestion for $45.

The wine list here is fairly extensive and well selected. There are a number of nice half bottles. The selection is avoids an overload of the obvious selections and features some slightly esoteric things. It however still represents Burgundy and Bordeaux competently. Chosen by someone with great taste. The two negatives I have are that the by the glass list is on the south side of interesting and wine prices are towards the high end of restaurant pricing. Not excessive mind you, but not inviting enough to splurge on something special. Two to two and a half times retail.  You can see the wine list here.

I started with a glass of 1999 Henri Mandois Blanc de Blanc. Very light. Nectarine flavors, maybe a bit of passion fruit. Not at all a leesy style. Very good.

The first course was a butternut squash puree, with pancetta, black truffles, and micro arugala. Very nice balance of flavors and textures here. The sweetness and creaminess of the squash complimented by the earthiness of the truffles. Both of those flavors countered by the fat of the pancetta. I almost licked the bowl. Instead I sponged it with some very whole grain rolls covered with sunflower seeds. First time I had ever heard the word micro subbed for baby but I like the creative thinking.

With the next course I drank a 2002 Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon, Macon Milly-Lamartine. Nothing too exceptional about it. Played well with the food but didn’t enhance it much.

The second dish built on the momentum from the first. Seared Nantucket bay scallops with buckwheat noodles, salsify, heirloom apples, and black truffles. Truffles in the first two courses! Like the first this course played a nice game of balance and juxtaposition. Cool noodles, hot scallops. Creamy scallops against the acidity of the apples. I could have walked out on to Randolph street at this point and been satisfied.

But I was glad that I didn’t. Course three was a pave of chestnut polenta and butternut squash with trumpet royale mushrooms, savoy cabbage, and roasted quince. Ultra fresh ingredients and hypnotic aromas. This was similar to the mushroom ragout I had later that week at Central Kitchen in Boston.

With the final course I had a 2000 Michel Gros Bourgogne. Here is what Allen Meadows had to say.

2000 Bourgogne: (from parcels in Vosne and Nuits). Bright, fresh and lively with solid finishing tannins. Lovely if somewhat light. (82-84)/2003-5

The final course was the lamb with winter root vegetables, haricots verts, gremolata, and grilled bread. Fantastic rendition of something simple. One of those great ingredients, try not to screw them up type of dishes. Flawless.

Blackbird is a big supporter of local and organic foods. On the menu it says “blackbird supports Chicago’s green city market.” Fortunately for all the foodies crowded in this hip spot, it reveals itself in the food.

Blackbird will be tops on my list next time I go to Chicago. I just need someone to share it with this time.

Blackbird
619 W Randolph
Chicago, IL
312.715.0708
fax 312.715.0774
www.blackbirdrestaurant.com

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